If you think Ubud is just rice terraces and smoothie bowls, oh baby, think again. This leafy corner of Bali knows how to keep things interesting with its buzzing art exhibitions, live jazz nights, and ...

It's mid-morning when we pull up at the entrance to the John Hardy workshop, just outside Ubud. Chickens peck at our feet, a motorbike rides through the surrounding rice fields and a plucky rooster ...